Kotachiwadi - thwarting its destiny?

Khotachiwadi is a heritage village in Girgaon, Mumbai, India. Houses built are made from the old-Portuguese style architecture.

It was founded in the late 18th century by Khot,a Pathare prabhu, who sold plots of land to local East Indian families. There used to be 65 of these houses, now reduced to 28 as old buildings are being pulled down to make way for new skyscrapers

It was just another usual Sunday morning. Myself and Indro (my photographer buddy), drove down south Mumbai for the customary photostroll. Indro had  been to this one before, and he thought I might like it. By 6 45 am we were at walking distance. We parked the car and walked. We walked as people woke up, a few breakfast stalls selling Idlee, Poha and hot tea. Others splashed water in front of the shops, preparing for another day of business.

I usually read a bit about the place prior to shooting, its a ritual almost. This time, I could see only some photographs. I was expecting to see a small Portuguese village - colorful houses, wall murals, nice jovial people or so I thought. I knew Kotachiwadi, had been declared a heritage village to protect it. I was quiet eager to get some nice vibrant shots.

We spent about 1.5 hours there, no its not as if there was a lot of shoot. We waited for sun to come up, also waited for people to get onto the streets. It was not really what I expected. The place was really small, just about one street with these quaint villas, colorfully painted, almost each of them with a second floor and a lovely wooden staircase going up. But the street almost ended instantly, and it merged into ugly high rises under construction and some chawls. I went up and down the street atleast 4-5 times, searching if I had missed a turn here or there. But no that was it, just about 15 odd houses, some of them crumbling.  I came back relieved to have seen it and bit sad. I have chosen not to have any color shots - black and white reflects my mood, the way it felt.

In 1999, Lamba (a conservatin architect) , and Rachana Sansad’s Academy of Architecture, produced the ‘Conservation Guidelines for Khotachiwadi’, for the Mumbai Metropolitan Authority. Till date, not a single guideline has been implemented. Impoverished residents are now selling their homes to builders. “What will follow,” say architects, “is wanton, insensitive development” (Picture postcard destiny?)


Kotachiwadi, and its residents seem to be loosing the battle. There are tall buildings being built all around. It will only be matter of time when the residents, will choose practicality and money over traditions. Or will the collective will of those who care be enough to thwart the destiny?